Peru and its South American neighbours

Peru, as you might know, is a South American country surrounded by Pacific ocean to its west and Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia and Chile from north to south in that order. It was a Spanish colony until 1821 and had a turbulent democratic history. The coastal areas in Peru look geographically much like India’s coastal strip from Konkan to Kerala, because just like India’s Western Ghats (Sahyadris) along the Arabian Sea, Peru has the Andes along the Pacific Ocean. The Andes rise much taller than Sahyadris though, often having snow covered peaks.

I’ve initiated contacts with people in Peru, although 2 weeks is not a time long enough to network. In case you (readers) have any contacts, I’d be glad to get in touch. I still have to research, reserve, get visa, insurance etc.

And this also prompts me to expedite my Israel Travelogs (Scrolls from the Holy Land) which, I admit, have not kept up well lately.

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“Yay! the Geese are back!”

Canadian Geese swimming in water. On the top is a pair of ducks. Photo: April 28, 2007

It’s not that I love the Canada Goose a lot. They make the whole place crappy after a while and can be quite aggressive when in large groups, making it quite annoying (and sometimes risky) to walk on the grass.

But I was happy, because the arrival of the Geese signaled the arrival of…. wait for it… here it comes… Spring!

During winter, these birds migrate to warmer regions towards the south (i.e. USA). Only a couple of weeks back I was in New York and it looked like the Geese had taken over the city.

Canadian Geese in New York. Photo: March 24, 2008

There are still large chunks of steadily melting snow on the open areas. It’s about 0°C today and I hope it gets warmer soon. Nevertheless I suddenly feel that Toronto is alive again… Welcome Spring

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I have fond memories of the grass forest on the outskirts of my little suburban town (Dombivli). Many evenings were spent there – playing amidst itchy vegetation, mud, dirt, all varieties of insects, bugs and other yucky stuff. I’ll write about my adventures with bugs, earthworms, frogs, wild flowers and such other amazing creations of nature in some other post because this post is dedicated to the one and only चतुर (Chatur, meaning ‘clever’).

Chatur

Photo: Dhanashri Avalaskar

Chatur is called Dragonfly in English. Wikipedia says this: “Dragonflies typically eat mosquitoes, midges, and other small insects like flies, bees, and butterflies. They are therefore valued as predators, since they help control populations of harmful insects. Dragonflies do not normally bite or sting humans, though they will bite in order to escape, if grasped by the abdomen.”

The sport
One of our favorite ’sports’ during monsoon was catching the Chatur. We usually caught the chatur and released it after displaying our conquest to mates. It was the coolest thing to do and scores were discussed next day at school. Catching a chatur is an art that requires an amazing combination of patience, precision, alertness and timing. A chatur will typically hover over a blade of grass for barely a second and then move on to the next. At the same time the chatur is quite sensitive to any motion in the surroundings, so an extraordinary amount of patience and steadiness is required while approaching it.

There are two ways to catch a chatur. The most common method is to grab the end of the chatur’s long and tiny tail. The tail is used as a rudder so the chatur vibrates and turns it unexpectedly. After studying these movements for a while it becomes easy to read patterns. The other method – the one that I strongly disapprove – is to catch the chatur by its wings. I think this method is easy but barbaric because it could potentially break the little guy’s wings, render them useless and thus lead to the chatur’s death. As a rule, we never could let any chatur die.

The Blue Chatur
On one such evening I was chasing a particular chatur when my attention was distracted by something blue and brilliant, fluttering inches away from my hand. It was possibly the most beautiful chatur I had seen lately. I left my current perusal and went after this little blue guy instead. After a bit of chasing I finally caught my prize!

I was holding the blue chatur’s tail between my thumb and index finger while placing it gently on the palm of my other hand. It made some attempts in vain to flutter away. My friends gathered around excitedly and I narrated them a long (and probably fake) tale about how I caught it.

I was going to violate an unwritten rule of the grass forest –

“मी घरी घेउन जाणार आणि ह्याला पाळणार” (I will take it home and keep it as a pet), I announced.

My buddies didn’t care. In fact, they agreed because suddenly it was a treasured possession of our gang and it would be good to display the blue chatur at school tomorrow. The other gang at school has been bragging about their catch in some other secret grass forest lately and we had to beat them.

Suggestions poured in about how to keep the chatur safe overnight. I could either tie its tail to a string and fasten it to a window railing or put it in a box. I chose to put it in a large match box since I thought that was less brutal. Then I inserted a twig of tender grass for the insect’s dinner (I didn’t know that it was a non-vegetarian). Content with the hospitality, I put the box away in my school bag and went to bed looking forward eagerly to the next day. I was soooo excited about my new pet that I woke up in the middle of the night to check if it was doing okay. It was, I loved my new pet!

I rushed to the school after checking that the chatur was still safe inside the box. I and my buddies decided to talk this thing up and create suspense among the classmates before we showed them the real thing. The plan was working well so far – everyone in the class was looking forward to seeing the mysterious blue dragon fly. Dude this was going to be awesome!!

No sooner than the recess bell rang, everyone gathered around me. Very ceremoniously and taking extra extra extra care I started opening the box gently while telling everyone how it was impossible to catch this rare species, how it bit me, blah blah (ah, I am was such a drama queen). I finally opened the box… viola!!

There were screams of excitement from my peers! Lots of wow’s, compliments and admiration. My buddies were proud of ‘our’ catch but…

….but I was choking; I felt like someone ripped my heart out of my body and there was just a void there. My eyes were wet and I started shivering…

My beautiful new pet was lying in the box, lifeless.

And that was the last time I caught a चतुर.

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Before you start wondering what the hell is wrong, let me clarify that I am talking about my BIKE I got my bike on this day last year.

In the past one year I haven’t biked much - maybe because there are so few months when cycling is possible (excuses excuses). My last trip was to Kortright Center some 35 km away on 28-October-2007 almost the beginning of winter. That was already stretching it because the freezing winds gave me flu and headache the next day.

This weekend, to welcome the spring, I’m going for a bike ride again. Unfortunately temperature will still be around -2 deg C. I am desperately waiting for spring / summer now.

Happy Birthday to my bike.

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Thats right. What did I do this long weekend? I went to New York City. Got soaked in the NY spirit for three-and-half days straight and that left me thirsty for more. It was too crowded due to the Easter Holiday. But that made it excitinger.

I’ll post some pictures of touristy places such as the Central Park, Statue of Liberty, Empire State Building, WTC, Brooklyn Bridge, Times Square and, the Broadway ofcourse

cheers.

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Akko (Acre): an ancient gateway to the middle east.

Old city

About 23km north of Haifa almost to the northernmost tip of Haifa bay is the city of Akko (आक्को) or Acre (आक्रे). It is connected on the Israel Railways and thats the most convenient way to travel. It is possible to see all of Akko in half-a-day as the old city is quite tiny indeed. I went there early in the morning and was back to Haifa by sunset.

History:
Acre has a very old history. It was mentioned by the Egyptians (1500 BCE), Hebrews, Cannanites, and had a stormy history in pre-christian days. Alexander (Greeks) conquered this city, Persians used it as a gateway against Egyptians, while there were murky controls from Syrians, Israelis, Maccabees and the Romans over the town. Arabs captured the city in 638 CE and the Crusaders arrived in 1104 CE. This town was their chief port in Palestine until Saladin captured it. Crusaders re took the city after several battles and in 1229 placed it under the control of the Knights Hospitaller. It was the final stronghold of the Crusader state, and fell to the Mameluks in a bloody siege in 1291. The Ottomans held the city from 1517 CE after which it was in a state of decay.
The Turkish rejuvenated the city in 18th century CE and held it against attacks from Napoleon. Jewish groups captured Akko after Israeli independence and most of the town’s Arab inhabitants fled the town.

Walls:
Acre is a walled city. In 1750, Daher El-Omar, the ruler of Acre, utilized the remnants of the Crusader walls and built fortification around the port city. The walls were reinforced between 1775 and 1799 by Jezzar Pasha and survived Napoleon’s siege.

Jezzar Pasha Masjid:

Jezzar Pasha Mosque

he Mosque of Jezzar Pasha was built by Jezzar Pasha in 1781. The mosque is Caesarea Maritima: Jezzar Pasha and his successor Suleiman Pasha are both buried in a small graveyard adjacent to the mosque. The mosque is an excellent example of Ottoman architecture, which incorporated both Byzantine and Persian styles. Some of its fine features include the green dome and minaret, a green-domed sabil next to its steps, and a large courtyard. Tourists are required to pay an entrance fees and it is NOT worth spending money to go inside, because there isn’t much to see. Muslim believers can go inside and pray.

Citadel:

The Citadel

The current building which consists the citadel of Acre is an Ottoman fortification, built on the foundation of the Hospitallerian citadel. The citadel was part of the city’s defensive formation, reinforcing the northern wall. During the 20th century the citadel was used mainly as a prison and as the site for a gallows.

Knights Halls:


Under the citadel and prison of Acre, archeological excavations revealed a complex of halls, which was built and used by the Hospitallers Knights. This complex was a part of the Hospitallers’ citadel, which was combined in the northern wall of Acre.

During the second half of the 12th century the members of the Templar Order began building their quarter in the south-western part of Acre. A writer who lived in the city at the end of the 13th century describes their fortress as follows:

The Templar Fortress was the strongest one in the city and, in the main, abutted the sea line. Its entrance was protected by two strong towers with walls 28 feet thick. On either side of the towers two smaller towers were built and each tower was topped by a gilded lion.

Templar Tunnels:
The tunnels were discovered in 1994 and opened to the public in 1999. Even now, excavations and restoration work is being carried out as some parts of the tunnel are buried under the sea.

Walking through the tunnels brought a rush of mixed feelings. I felt like I was transported back in history and spearmen and archers would walk past me. The tunnels have a peculiar smell that weans the enthusiasm out of you, but, at the same time, i was quite excited to walk on this path.

A single ticket purchased at the Citadel will give access to various excavation sites around the town. Audio self-guided tapes are included in the price and are definitely recommended. Lots of the places were closed as restoration work was in progress. The modest visitor center runs a nice film about the history of Akko.

I was sitting in the theatre watching the film with my buddy. Since there were barely 10 people in the hall and we (youngsters) were tired (hahaha), so we put our feet on the seats. A guard promptly arrived and gave us a brief lecture about good manners. At the end of it my Israeli friend remarked - ‘Wow, an Israeli guy talking about politeness.’ That was funny (and embarrassing)!

More:

The Turkish markets (shuk शुक्) inside narrow alleys of the old city were pretty busy. This part of Akko reminded me a lot about the old city of Jerusalem. But the people here looked quite different as they were mostly Israeli Arabs. Lunch was at a traditional Turkish restaurant outside the mosque and surprisingly they had several pita bread, rice, vegetables and lentil (दाल). It became a habit to gulp down 2-3 cups of mint tea while relaxing under the cool breeze.

It is prohibited to walk on the wall’s periphery but it is still possible to sneak in. The walls are thin and very tall but balancing a walk on them is bound to send a chill down your spine.

Mediterranean Sea

This travelblog post is part of my Israel travelog series. I spent 3 weeks in Israel during Dec’07-Jan’08 and all my travel stories and pictures are recorded on this website. Please visit the Index page by clicking here to get complete Israel travelogues. Thanks

• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 9 : Beit She’an (24)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 8 : Cycling around Sea of Galilee (26)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 7 : Tiberias (18)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 6 : Old City of Jerusalem (17)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 5 : Bethlehem (13)

1. I tend to avoid watching movies in movie halls because the idea of so many strangers sitting in one dark cramped room on seats designed for discomfort, eating huge portions of junk food and arching their necks to stare at a bright screen scares me. If and when I go, it’s usually a date or else a gang of friends (i.e. occasions when ‘watching the movie‘ is a secondary activity.)
2. Yes yes, I am ‘that’ guy - the one who loves chatting with friends during a movie. I find it urgent to express my sarcastic views then and there, often sending out an infectious laughter. I don’t understand why some people think watching a movie is like going to a crematorium - no smile, no talk, just focus on the only source of light in the dark room…. and uh, yes, not laugh at my mediocre jokes.
3. I strongly believe that mainstream movies (Bollywood masala in particular) are made for people with double digit IQ’s. Missing few minutes is not going to matter at all, (at least to people who understood what I just said)
4. I love the system in the movie halls in India (atleast in Mumbai, I don’t know other cities) - tickets have seat numbers. If I plan and book in advance, I should have the right to choose my seat in advance. Else it feels like I am boarding an unreserved compartment of a railway train or an air deccan flight… people jostle to grab good seats 30 minutes before the movie starts and the guy who planned this looks like a fool.
5. The first thing I check is signs marked ‘EXIT’ (and show it to my friends who laugh it off.) The last thing I wanna do in a crisis situation is to squander time searching for one.
6. I don’t understand why people zealously overpay for poor quality goods, such as food. And what exactly makes everyone hungry once they enter the confined room? Its a matter of 2-3 hours, comeon! Often the cumulative sound of people munching and slurping their food is higher than the dolby digital movie sound, not to mention the annoying smell that lingers in the hall until your nose is immune to it.
7. Dolby digital (and other fancy) sound systems does NOT mean ‘excessively loud volume.’ After the movie people usually emerge out screaming and yelling at each other because the noise music has deafened their ear drums.
8. I giggle when (other) people fart in closed and confined places. I have a fantasy for people who eat onion rings dipped in garlic sauce and then watch the movie with an open mouth. I secretly wish that some slimy bug with four hundred legs would slither into that opening. Seriously, the stench kills the most adorable deospray and I feel like burrying my nose in my (or my neighbor’s) armpits but then that would seem perverted.
9. I don’t understand the craze for watching a movie on the first day paying double the price. I prefer weekday evenings when the prices are half and guess what, its the same stuff on screen!
10. I would gladly pay more to have separate arm-rests for each chair. Some people have hairy, sweaty arms, no?

I have a feeling that hardcore movie buffs hate me now…. no, no, don’t hate me puhleezzz See I wrote few movie reviews too!

I’m tagging.. umm… let me think. Oh, if you like it, take it up voluntarily
cheers!

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Summer is brutal in central India so streets were usually deserted until 17:00, after which cooler breeze started blowing. This particular day, A was extremely bored because even A’s cousins decided to join the adults for siesta. It was no fun playing in water alone or throwing pebbles at raw mangoes or discussing strategies to conquer the world. A decided to venture out, disobeying the orders of the elders.

It was rather difficult to take out the little bike silently, so A sneaked out of the creaking gate on foot. Temperatures were around 40 C and the sun was spewing heat akin to fire from a dragon’s mouth, which A related to the cartoon in yesterday’s नई दुनिया (Nai Duniya - a Hindi newspaper). A little distance away tucked in A corner was A small store, which in A’s opinion was world’s most wonderful store – it had candy, toys and comic books – what else do humans need?

A was thrilled to enter the store; it was the first time A was going there unaccompanied. A saw the newest edition of चाचा चौधरी (Chacha Chaudhary - a popular Hindi comic book) and A had to have it before anyone else did. It was A different matter that the book was in Hindi and A could not read Hindi properly yet. In Maharashtra, Hindi is taught from grade 5, but since Marathi is taught from grade 2 and Bollywood’s Urdu Hindi cultural imperialism is overpowering, A could understand some stuff in the book. A was anyway more interested in the pictures of fights between Nora, the poison man and Sabu, the giant from Planet Jupiter (चाचा चौधरी और जहरीला इंसान नोरा (Chacha Chowdhari and the poison man Nora - Hindi edition).

A picked up the book and went to the guy at the cashier, who had a big moustache and a pot belly. The guy smiled and said “३ रुपए”(Three rupees) Oh, but A didn’t carry any money! A wanted the book so that A could brag about both – buying a book and reading the latest issue. The thought of the inability to do so and finding no solution around, A was on the verge of tears. A didn’t know what to do. The world is evil, who invented money?

A tiny voice from somewhere squeaked, “मेरी वाली पढ़ लेना” ([you] can read my copy)

With a jerk, A excitedly turned the neck around before the body could turn – like the kathak dancer. There was another nine-ten year old, dressed in red, and having a typical pre-pubescent tender feminine voice. A caught sight of the Chacha Chowdhary book being waived enthusiastically.

“साथ साथ पढते है?” (Shall we read it together?)
“हॉं” (yes) A said

…and suddenly the world was a better place.

The two kids trotted to a park adjacent to the store. The hot wind was burning their soft skins like tender wood in a furnace, but both of them were eager to read the comic book. They found a bench under a tree, but the tree was not leafy, making the bench too hot and uncomfortable. A had this bright idea. Pointing to a shady place under a giant tree A said:

“उधर चल” (lets go there) (Not A Hindi speaker, and on top of that A Mumbaikar. do you expect correct Hindi?)

“क्या हम जमीन पर बैठेंगे?” (do you want us to sit on the ground?)

A didn’t understand that long sentence. So A simply ran to that place, cleared the dry leaves with little feet and gestured an invitation (I think A loved nature and outdoors since childhood).

In the blistering heat of peak Indian summer, two kids, away from home were spending some lovely time together reading their favourite comic book.

After reading the first chapter in which Nora the poison man enters the city and creates terror by killing people, the two kids paused and started talking.

“तेरा नाम क्या है?” (What is your name?) A asked

“X. और तुम्हारा?”

“A”

“कहॉं से हो?”(Where are you from?)

“मुंबई, तु?”(Mumbai, you?)

“….” (it was some place nearby)

After a while, X said, “मुझे चलना होगा ईससे पहले की मॉं चिंता करने लगे। मुझे केवल यह लेना था।” (I have to leave before mother starts worrying. I just had to buy this) pointing at the book.

A was devastated. A didn’t want this to end yet. Time seemed to have stopped and A wanted this moment to go on and on.

“लेकिन बाकी है…” (but there’s some left [to read] – in broken Hindi) A said sadly.

“कोई बात नहीं, तुम रख लो। इंदौर के दोस्त की तरफ से भेंट समझ लेना।”(No worries, you can keep this as a gift from your friend from Indore)

A was speechless… A wanted to take the book, but hesitated to do so. X insisted that A keep it. X grabbed A’s hand, thrust the comic book and was ready to leave.

Almost automatically, A uttered, “फिर कब मिलनेका?” (When do we meet next?)

X thought about it for A while and said – “कल मिलते है, यहीं पर।” (lets meet tomorrow, same place)

“ठीक है।” (alright)

Maybe X was unwilling to leave, but had to. As they were going away, A and X looked at each other and their eyes caught a moment, almost like they show in the movies. Although they had met barely an hour back, there was clearly something special between them, which made no sense. Intuitively, they hugged each other tightly. The hug lasted for a fraction of a second, what A thought was no less than a millennium. A could feel the soft hair and smell the musky body odour of X and this was the best feeling A ever experienced. It was new, and therefore very confusing. What was happening?

X left.

A stood there. Just stood there watching X go away. A wanted to run and catch X and talk to X again, but somehow A’s feet were rooted to the ground. A was choking with emotions, unable to say even a “bye”. Then A returned home, unable to understand what just happened.

What just happened? Was it love? Was X some kind of evil magician who lured young kids like the fairy tale story? A never felt this way before. These feelings were confusing. Really really confusing.

[Everyone at home was already worrying. I am sparing you (readers) of all the details, which should be quite evident]
But A didn’t care. A’s mind was filled with excitement and anticipation of the next day.

The next day:
A got up early morning, much to everyone’s surprise. A was disinterested in playing hide-n-seek or Ludo with cousins. A went to the kitchen thrice to ask when the lunch was going to be ready. A was eager to finish the lunch and go out. A’s mother on the other hand was busy packing. They had a train to board on the same day – Avantika Express.

A, so naïve, told mother that it was very important to go to the store again today afternoon and it was a question of life and death (this probably came from a recent movie A watched).

“आपण उद्या जाउया, आज नको.” (We’ll go tomorrow, not today), A announced.

“अरे पण आपलं reservation आहे ना, आज गेलंच् पाहिजे, परवा पासून शाळा सुरु होणार ना.” (But dear, we have a reservation today and your school starts a day after, remember? We have to leave today.) Mom tried to explain the facts.

“मी नाही येणार, तुच् जा. मला नाही जायचं, मला दुपारी त्या दुकानात जायचय X ला भेटायला.” (I wont go, you can go if you want. I must go to the shop today afternoon to meet X)

Man proposes God disposes. A threw tantrums around the house, cried and screamed loudly, use every possible convincing strategy A’s little brain could think of.

But the fact remained that A had to leave. Summer vacation was over and it was time to go back to own lives. But… why did all of this have to happen today???

It was the end of the world for A, there was just, just no point living further. A cried and cried until A ran out of tears. These elders just don’t understand important things.

So A went back to Mumbai with the book firmly held close to heart.

….And never saw X again.

Today, A is 26 years old. Lots of such X’s appeared and disappeared from A’s life. But this incident was a defining moment in A’s life - nothing was the same again, and will never be.

- - -
No points for guessing who A is

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I am extremely reachable anyway

cheers,

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On the banks of the Kishon River, the port city of Haifa is a mosaic of diversity and home to the Bahai faith.

A bus journey from Tiberias (तिबेरीया) took me to Haifa (हाईफा) in less than an hour. It’s a straight route going towards the west from the hills of Galilee to flat plains. The bus terminal at Haifa is mammoth, very crowded and for the first time in Israel so far, I saw people in a hurry.

Bahai

Bahai Garden: Shrine of Bab

The Bahá’í Faith (बहाई धर्म) is a religion founded by Bahá’u'lláh in 19th-century Persia, emphasizing the spiritual unity of all humankind. Báb (बाब), the messenger was born in Persia (Iran) and his tomb is located in Haifa. Bahai is one of the religions that is persecuted by Iran. There are about 6 million Bahai’s in the world, 50% of them being in India. The Bahai world center at Haifa is the holiest shrines of the faith.

My first reaction to this was… what? one more? So its Judaism, Christianity, Islam, Druze and Bahai (maybe more smaller ones, I don’t know)

The Bahai center is open to public only for a few hours. The gardens can be visited only by booking a tour in advance, and it is pretty simple to do so from their website. I recommend taking a tour of the upper gardens as it gives a wonderful view of the entire Haifa town. The tour is free.

There are 19 terraces of the Bahai gardens: 9 being above the shrine of the Baab and 9 being below. The terraces are shaped like 9 collinear circles with water flowing from the top to the bottom. It generates a very peaceful feeling and immediately takes you away from the noise and rush of the city. 19 is also a sacred number for the Bahai faith.

View from the top gardens is simply awesome. Haifa is a beautiful city indeed, blessed with a wonderful deep blue Mediterranean sea on two sides.

Haifa city:

Haifa City


Haifa, like most other places in Israel, has a long history. It is built on Mount Carmel, which was known during 3 CE as a dye making center for Jewish priests’ temple cloth. The city prospered during the Byzantine rule and competed with nearby Akko town. In 7 CE the city was conquered by Persians and then by Arabs. In 12 CE the crusaders won it after a battle with local Jews and Muslims. The Mameluks captured it in 13 CE. In 1761, Bedouin rulers destroyed and rebuilt the city, an event that marked Haifa’s entry in modern era. Later, the city was held by the Ottomans except for brief periods when Napoleon Bonaparte and then the Egyptians conquered Haifa

German Templars arrived in 1868 and created what is known today as the German colony. This block of the town was very beautiful indeed, and my hostel was located in the vicinity. There were a number of bakeries around and one morning I simply sat at the corner of Ben Guiron street eating warm bread with butter and jam while watching the city move.

Due to its predominantly industrial nature, Haifa had bloody times during the 1948 war of Independence. Today it is one of the largest technology and industrial hubs of Israel.

Sunset at Haifa

Haifa is endowed with a long convex coastline and it was wonderful to spend an evening at the beach watching the sunset with a couple of friends I met there.

Old men playing cards at the beach

Promenade, Haifa beach

The promenade and touristy areas of the Ha Carmel beach (near the large train and bus station). After the promenade ended, we walked on the beach further north. Stepping feet on the naked ground, we were shocked to find what was under our feet. A beach that is covered by, not sand but, used condoms! Yes that’s right, its was a cruising beach. We noticed a number of cars and … [topic terminated]. That was the hardest (no pun intended) laugh I had!

I met some really wonderful people at the Port Inn hostel. There were many Bahai pilgrims visiting the place from all over the world for some pilgrimage. Haifa town is located around mt Carmel and a number of hills around and it is nice to hike on spiraling roads and trails. There are plenty of museums and tourist centers in the town, but what a pity, I was stuck with some school work that was urgent. I had to waste spend a day doing that.

This travelblog post is part of my Israel travelog series. I spent 3 weeks in Israel during Dec’07-Jan’08 and all my travel stories and pictures are recorded on this website. Please visit the Index page by clicking here to get a complete Israel travelogue. Thanks

• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 9 : Beit She’an (24)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 8 : Cycling around Sea of Galilee (26)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 7 : Tiberias (18)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 6 : Old City of Jerusalem (17)
• Scrolls from the Holy Land - 5 : Bethlehem (13)