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Some notes on entry / visa procedures for visiting Bhutan as a tourist.
Bhutan is one of those countries that places some justified restrictions on foreign tourists. Getting into Bhutan as a tourist can be tricky for people of all nationalities except India. That’s the reason this country is not greatly conducive for backpackers and independent travelers. This post is intended to serve as a guide for those who are seriously interested in Bhutan Tourism. Like always, you can rely on the information here. 
Bhutan Gate border crossing at Phuentsholing, Bhutan. On the other side is Jaigaon, India.
Entering Bhutan
- Land: Border crossings at Phuentsholing-Jaigaon (West Bengal) and Samdrup Jonkhar (Assam) with India. The Indian border cities are well connected to Silliguri and Guwahati respectively. There is no border crossing with Tibet (which is currently under Chinese occupation.)
- Air: Druk Air, the national carrier of Bhutan, operates flights from Delhi (India), Kolkata (India), Kathmandu (Nepal), Dhaka (Bangladesh) and Bangkok (Thailand). I am told that the flying the airline is an experience in itself.
- Legends also mention mythological creatures that will fly you straight to monasteries hidden in the Himalayas. I wish I knew more.
The border cities
Jaigaon (on the Indian side) and Phuentsholing (on Bhutanese side) are separated by the Bhutan gate and a border on paper. People (Bhutanese, Indians, foreigners) can freely cross back and forth until 22:00 (vehicles until 21:00.) After that (unofficially), if you are Indian, they will let you to enter India and if you are Bhutanese, they will let you enter Bhutan but no free wandering is allowed. (PS: If you are sitting in a bar in Bhutan, they will politely ask you to leave by 22:00 unless you have a permit!) Bhutanese nationals can go anywhere in India but Indian nationals need a permit in order to stay in Bhutan. Foreigners obviously need a visa in either countries.
A bridge draped with prayer flags in Phuentsholing
Indian Nationals
Bhutan has a special relation with India and this is very evident once you enter the country. In order to visit Bhutan, Indian citizens need one of these documents. The procedure may slightly differ.
- Indian Passport makes it easiest to enter Bhutan. Armed with the passport, you may simply board the bus/taxi to either Thimpu or Paro (only these 2 places) from the border. At the border post Rinchending (about 5km from Phuentsholing), you will be asked to fill a form and your passport will be stamped with a 7 or 14 day permit (depends on the guy’s mood.) You can always get this extended in Thimpu. Carry a photograph and a copy of your passport.
- Voter registration card is the second most preferred document. With a copy of your Voter ID (provided by the Election Commission of India) and a photograph, go to the immigration office1 and fill a form2. You will be photographed and asked to return after few hours. You may then collect an entry permit which must be retained at all times.
- Driver’s License: (From secondary research) You will have to go to the Indian Embassy in Phuentsholing with 2 photographs and copy of your driver’s license. The officer who works at his own speed will issue a ‘request for permit.’ This ‘request’ from Indian embassy must then be taken to the immigration office in Bhutan and further steps are same as that for Voter ID. Note: The guy in immigration office said that this process is discouraged (and might be terminated soon.)
- Any other document such as PAN card, Ration card etc. will not be accepted.
Arranging a permit at the border is the safest way although passport holders can go straight to the checkpost as mentioned above. Indian (non commercial) vehicles can enter Bhutan easily. However, an entry permit is required and can be arranged at the immigration office in Phuentsholing.
Buses parked as the sun sets across the bus station at Phuentsholing
Foreign Nationals
Foreign (excluding Indian) nationals have the following rules:
- You must use Druk Air, the official airline of Bhutan, atleast once – either enter or exit (or both.)
- Visas will be issued on arrival (at the airport in Paro or Indian border) and cannot be obtained in advance
- Visa applications must be initiated by authorised tour operators (check the official website.) The tour operator submits the application to the Ministry of Tourism which then issues an approval letter. This approval letter is the basis of final visa application to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs which takes upto 2 weeks to process it.
- Airline ticket cannot be purchased until you have a visa confirmation number
- For every day you spend in Bhutan, you are charged $200-$250. This includes accommodation, food, transport and a tour guide only.
I can see your eyes popping out as you read this list (conservatively written) to the last bullet. But all this work is efficiently done by tour agents. However, you will have to travel on a pre-defined itinerary which can be customised as per your need. Making last minute changes is a bureaucratic nightmare (as you can imagine.)
Btw, I never saw any foreign national who was under 40 years old. But thats pretty obvious considering the cost and constraints…. hehehe!
Bhutan Gate. On the other side is India
More bureaucracy
Bhutanese bureaucracy is a topic of discussion in itself. My friend Odzer had warned me, but I had no idea that I would need so much patience3.
- Entry Permit (described above): This is the document that a tourist will obtain at the border. It is single entry only and will be checked and rechecked along the numerous checkposts. Entry permits can be extended in Thimpu (takes about a day.)
- Restricted-Area Permit: To go beyond Paro and Thimpu (Dochu La), you need a special entry permit. This can be obtained at Thimpu. When we asked for it at the border, we were asked to apply for it only in Thimpu. To make this permit, you need a copy of the Entry Permit and one day.
- Temple Permit: Bhutan’s spiritual and cultural wealth is preserved in their monasteries and cultural centers. Therefore, you will need this permit from the National Commission for Cultural Affairs (Ministry of Culture) which is located at a distance from the immigration office in Thimpu. The temple permit is required only for the few notable monasteries and you will need to produce copies of your Entry Permit and Restricted-Area Permit (if applicable.) The application form for Temple permit is completely in Dzonkha language, and requires endorsement from a hotel/tour agent, so be prepared to ask for local assistance!
Good luck negotiating all that – but only Indian nationals need to do this on their own. For foreigners, the tourist companies will have everything ready!
And if you miss mentioning a destination in one of those forms,…. ! LOL
Footnotes:
1. The Bhutanese Immigration office at Phuentsholing is located about fifty meters from the Bhutan gate inside Bhutan. It is the building after the fuel station and also houses customs.
2. The form will ask you to specify all the places you want to visit in Bhutan. However in order to visit any place beyond Thimpu or Paro, you need a ‘restricted-area permit’ as described above.
3. Bhutanese take pride in preserving their traditions. Make sure that you are dressed conservatively and neatly. It is important to be patient and polite with the officials.
- Picture of Indian passports taken from Ministry of External Affairs website.
Now that you have read this, pack your bags and go have fun! 
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Oh Man! Looks too complicated. I glossed over most of the fine details, so when I am ready to make a trip there, I will send you an e-mail and you can tell me what exactly I need to do.
↵LOL Vamsee, sure thing
↵Thats really useful information for anyone visiting Bhutan! and your photos are really stunning!
↵Thanks Sonam! Nice to see your comment here
↵Hi, thanks for all the info. Usually, most websites on Bhutan tourism cater to foreign nationals. Could you also update on how expensive things are and where did you stay, price of the rooms etc. etc.? Also, how much stuff can you buy and get back across customs…
↵Thanks Siddharth, I’m glad you found this information useful. Tourist infrastructure in Bhutan is typically as expensive as a tier 2 tourist city in India. I’ll update on the prices when I detail into each post. Regarding customs, I don’t have verified information so it would be best to ask at the border when you go to Bhutan. All the best.
↵Nice pictures. I enjoyed all the photos and your description of the entry procedures. The Bhutanese have their own way of doing things and well so does everyone else I guess. A lot of problems happen when we expect everything to be the same as ‘back home’.
I have crossed a few borders in my life but I have crossed this particular one in multiple ways. On foot several times, in an auto rickshaw, in a bus and a car! Its fun going to India several times in a day if you stay in Phuntshoeling!
↵Yes indeed Odzer, and after handling few foreign countries, you get prepared for everything. I crossed the border only on foot and in a bus
↵“Like always, you can rely on the information here.”
Thanks Mr. Ambassador to Bhutan. I shall rely..LOL.
Thanks for the info Priyank. Had read similar stuff elsewhere earlier but it wasn’t as clear and concise as you have presented.
↵hehehe! Thanks Celine, and please, you must stop thanking me once every sentence, I turn red with embarrasment.
↵love the comment box new look, the colour and ambience here, welcome change and very fresh, all the photos as usual, the write up interesting read for someone thats never crossed national borders consciously (as an infant doesnt count) – a little breathless actually, I just came back from Lothal IVC, and thought that you are due to leave tomorrw or day after, so heres wishing a very eventful and successful year ahead and bon voyage.
↵Please, visit again
Trisha, I’m glad you liked the new design. I promise to publish more better pictures. Happy New year to you too!
↵Very cool pics and info, especially if someone was intending to travel to Bhutan, don’t see it in my future, I get excited when I get time off to go to my home city Calgary,lol.
All the best to you and good luck with your many travels in 2009.
↵LOL Bob, Calgary
I haven’t been to the west (or east) of Toronto, some day I’d love to see the Rockies! Thanks and wish you a star gazing filled 2009!
↵Wondering if the entry rules apply to people on business trips…
BTW, maybe Bhutan should issue special ‘pilgrimage visa’.
↵Hi Khengsiong! Welcome to my blog and thanks for stopping by to comment. Pilgrimage visa…hehehe, yes its a good idea, but currently by mixing it with tourist visa, they are raking in more money
If you find anything about requirements of Business Visa, do let me know too.
↵Hi Priyank! Happy New Year! Great pictures and quite informative post. I’ll take note; one never knows…
↵Happy new year to you too Gill! Never know when you trot over there
↵Very informative! Great for future trip, if any
Happy 2009!
↵Happy 2009 to you too Kiran
↵Priyank, thanks and no thanks, lol, I will not be going there yet at least. BTW who takes your pictures of you, don’t you ever worry that some stranger one day will run away with your camera, lol. Excellent photo, love the sky one. Thanks for sharing, Anna
↵Thanks Anna: If you are not going there, I’ll try best to give you an intimate tour of Bhutan from here. I was on this trip with a friend who took my pics, otherwise I usually ask strangers to take my pics (PS: Most people are horrible at taking pictures so I have to tell them so many details). Someone stealing my cam… LOL what will they find
But you are right, I worry about it so after every day or two I transfer all pics to my laptop 
hehe!
↵Very informative as always
↵Thanks GV!
↵I think its pretty simple. Atleast you don’t have to stand in a queue and give interviews!
↵The photographs are great. As usual.
Happy New Year!!
Hey Amit!
No queues, but plenty of waiting outside the office (and you can’t sit because its stained with paan!)
↵Happy New year and thanks
With this, I guess I will only travel with the help of a tour company. Hey, it was good meeting you! Keep some time aside for lunch/dinner the next time.
↵Shantanu, it was very good meeting you too! Yes we will plan something better next time, maybe in Toronto!
↵Hey Priyank!
Great information on Bhutan. I was just llooking up bhutan myself when i landed here. And lovely pictures!
↵Hey Neeraja,
↵Thanks for dropping by and welcome to my blog. I hope you find more useful information here. Cheers!
Hi priyank,
↵u gave me very useful information.
Thank you v much..daa.
Hi Ravi, you are very welcome and thanks for writing a note. Most people don’t bother to do so
↵Hi very informative and I hope it will serve me good while I go to Bhutan under Ministry of Education as a Biology Teacher next month. However, I don’t have a passport but is entry wit DL allowed when u need to stay there for a minimum of 5 years??? Please do let me knw of this info.
↵Hi Arunava,
But since you are going to stay for a long time on Government sponsored project, arranging the visa will be easy I think!
↵Thanks for your comment and welcome to my website. Your case is very specific and unfortunately I do not have any reply for that
I have just learnt computer operations. How lucky i am to have met u on blog map. You r a great friend of potential tourists and i love your narration .Can i assist you in exploring tourist spots in and around Karnataka ? I look forward to travel many more places with you . Goodluck and Happy New Year
↵Dear R Srinavas,
↵Welcome to my blog and thanks for stopping by to comment. It was very nice to read that you liked it. I live in Toronto, and I really don’t know when will be the next time I visit India!
Im late here..but you are going to be my tour guide when I get the money to travel there..also Im going to finish readg all your posts by tom ..
↵Thanks Lakshmi, I will be delighted to!
↵Hi Priyank,
After a maddeningly long search, your page on bhutan-border-crossing for Indians was music to my ears (or eyes, rather!).
Just a few Qs …
1. How much does a permit for a non-Com vehicle cost or is it just a formality? A couple of friends and I are planning to bike to Bhutan and back on our bullets.
2. Can you recomend any good hotels/hostels for a transit stop in the larger cities? Or is backpacking/camping allowed for Indians?
Kashyap
↵Hi Kashyap,
Thanks for the comment. I’ll try to answer your questions, although I am no expert!
1. Permit for people is free, but for vehicles I don’t know. However I am guessing that it will either be free or very cheap!
↵2. There are no European/American backpacker style hostels, but there are several hotels offering different rates. We didn’t have any problems finding accommodation at all, staying at Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. You can do most of your trips in central Bhutan from these cities. However, I hear that during tourist season, the places tend to get full.
Nicely written, well-documented, informative post. If everyone who traveled followed your footsteps by blogging so wonderfully about it, the worldwide tourism industry will be a gold mine!
↵Thanks Mahendra. When I was researching before going to Bhutan, I thought that one has to spend hours over various websites and connect the confusing pieces. Plus few websites give instructions for Indian citizens who want to visit Bhutan. I hope this post on entry procedures is informative to whoever wants to go there.
↵A small clarification. I’m an Indian National. If I don’t have an Indian Passport, I can still enter Bhutan with a “Voter registration card” OR a valid “Drivers License”?
↵Hi Vikas, thanks for the question. I have replied you via email and the answer is also in the post. In short, you can enter Bhutan with either of these documents.
↵[...] draped along the end of a ridge above the river. A police and immigration check-post scanned our Special Areas Permit and let us cross the river and ascend to the little town of Wangdue (pronounced as Wangdi – [...]
↵[...] per se since we do not have to pay the $200-$250 fee that the foreign tourists pay per day (Info here). For foreign travelers, food is included in their daily tariff, so the restaurant can charge [...]
↵[...] foreigner, the mandatory tour company will ‘take’ you from the airport itself (read more about this) so you don’t have to worry about anything. If you are Indian, you are on your [...]
↵Thanks for this very informative post, Priyank. I’ve been looking for details on the entry procedures for quite some time.
Your Bhutan experiences are quite fascinating to read.
Thanks,
↵Neeraj
Thanks Neeraj, Glad you liked it!
↵Hi Priyank, like most of the people above, i also accidentaly (and a very good thing) came across your blog while finding info about visiting Bhutan and since reading your blog my urge to visit bhutan has grown threefold. I need your help here to do this. I live in Mumbai and therefore plan to go to Bhutan by Druk Air via Kolkatta(sadly do not own a car, neither my friend). so can we just book seats on the flight and then get a visa on arrival at Paro. How can i then go about doing the sightseeing, Is there car we can hire there and explore Bhutan on our own or do we have to go through a tour operator. Planning to go end sept/early oct, so need to fine tune things now.Your advice would be highly appreciated. LOL sunita
↵Thanks for the message Sunita, I will also respond via email.
Druk Air’s website is pretty informative. You could simply call them to ask about specifics, but as far as I know, you don’t need a Visa before departure. Buy a travel guidebook – Lonely Planet Bhutan is quite good. Renting a vehicle is possible, or you could simply do the trip that I have done, relying on public transport (and hitchhiking at some times)!
↵hi priyank
↵this is saberi from Dhaka, Bangladesh, eagarly, I like to travel Bhutan, I like to go by Road from our northern District ‘Lalmonirhat’ (greater Rangpur)… seems near Kuch Bihar.
I would be much appreciated, if you could guide me. how to go bhutan? mean time, on last year, I travelled kalimpang, Karsiang, darjeeling, meerik etc. leads to shiliguri. kindly help me!
thanking you in advance
best rgds/saberi
Hi Saberi, thanks for your question.
There is 1 bus at around noon run by Bhutan Government daily from Silliguri to Phuentsholing, the border town. I took that bus, and it cost about Rs 80 or so (cant remember) and in 4.5 hours I was in Bhutan. This is the cheapest option to go there. Additionally, there are private buses and shared taxis available from the depot near the bus stand.
Do you have an Indian citizenship? Indian citizens can enter freely and get a visitors permit at the border. If you are not Indian, you’ll be subjected to foreign citizens rules which means booking through a travel agent, applying for a visa and paying $250 per day as service charge. Details above.
I’ve sent you an email to make sure you get this reply.
↵hi priyank
noted all of your kind info reg bhutan travels.
hence, I will disturb you once again……..reg best time of travel…., can you tell me when is the best convenient time of travel to bhutan. please let me know. then I can make schedule.
remarks: as I had informed you that I am bangladeshi, if I go then…. I will start from dhaka to shilliguri by bus through our northern district ‘Lalmonirhat’.
thanks for your kind help indeed.
rgds/saberi
↵Hi Saberi,
Except January, June and july, all other months are considered “high season” to travel.
But I think I must repeat myself: If you are not an Indian national, you cannot travel independently. Foreign citizens have to book a travel visa and a tour through a travel agent. Detailed rules and Bhutan government website link given above. Hope that helps.
↵Hi Priyank
Many tahnks for infor reg travel time.
also understabnd…… then I have to contact with travel agent and accordingly I will make schedu.
remarks: I have travelled your bhutan photo gallery, waooo!! it’s excitting!!! such a beautiful country ! in fact … me and my wife so thrilled about Himalaya !!!
thanks again for your kind help.
rgds/saberi
↵Thats nice Saberi, you’ll have a good time there! Lemme know when you go so that I can give you my address – maybe you can send me a postcard!
↵hi priyank
I will let you know, may be this eid vacation ….I mean on coming september, I can make schedule, but depends on everything…. alongwith my official eid vacation notice.
sure, I will send you my post photo soon.
↵thanks a lot.
rgds/saberi
cool
↵Hi Priyank
this is saberi………… how is doing, seems going well !
Sorry I’m supossed to travel bhutan this eid vacation, but unfortunately, I got severe sick and rushed to hospital, however, now is ok.
↵now planing to go on november….
by the way, can you please provide me your contacting number? so that I can contact with you , in your conv time.
take a good care.
thanks
rgds/saberi
Hey Priyank,
Very informative…. I will mail when I am ready for the Bhutan trip…. please guide me more….
↵Hello Sriharsha, Feel free to ask any questions after you’ve completed your research, and I’ll try my best.
↵Hi Priyank
I have few questions:
1. what’s the favorable time to visit Bhutan.. m planning to visit in jan-end or early feb… will it be ok..!!
2. And how much one day cost there..? I have limited budget..
↵Hello Ravi,
↵Thanks for the message. I suggest you do some basic online research first, and that will answer most of your questions. The cost part is tricky, but it is certainly possible to travel on a shoestring – avoid expensive hotels, tour guides and taxis. I stayed in cheap places, ate where local people eat and always took the bus.
Priyank
↵I wish to visit Bhutan this year. I am a Indian national. We are two persons. Please let me know which time is the best for Bhutan and any other information which we need.
Hello S. Nivas, Thanks for your comment. I’d suggest you do some basic online research on your own and if you still have questions, shoot me an email. I’ll be happy to help.
↵Hi Saberi, Glad to know you are doing good. I will send you an email.
↵hi Priyank
↵Noted and many thanks.
saberi