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priyank.com travel feature

Library at my school
Schulich School of Business, York University, where I am getting my MBA degree from, is considered to be the best business school in Canada. This picture is from the library which I last visited ... hmm, I honestly don\'t know when...!
Toronto Tuesday: Weekly Photos of different locations in Toronto

Andean Explorations – 11: Temple of Fertility

This blog post is part of my Peru travelog series. Click here for Index page
Previous post: Puno | Next post: Food

Ever since some European backpackers told me in broken English that “We make pictures at Penis temple”, I was curious to check that place out.

Inka Uyo

img_3797rbms.jpg
It’s a rock, it’s a farm, it’s an erect penis! The Inka Uyo

Chucuito (चुकुअीतो) is a little village about 18 km south of Puno along the coast of Lake Titicaca. There is nothing much to see here except for an archeological site called “Inca Uyo” (अीन्का अुयो). “Uyo”, in Quechuan (one of the original ‘native’ language of central Andes and the second largest spoken languages in Peru) literally means ‘penis’.

Dedicated to that idea, was the ancient Temple of Fertility at Chukuito. The site contains dozens of mushroom shaped erect penises few feet long. They are symbolically pointing towards the Inti (Sun God) and Pacha mama (Mother Earth).

img_3798rbms.jpg
A penis, hard as a rock, symbolically mating with Pacha mama, the Mother Earth

Someone told me that on specific days, virgin women arrive here at night, perform rituals to the God of fertility and sit on the phalluses. It is a symbolic ritual to increase their fertility.

A fake site?
img_3799rbms.jpg
Temple of Fertility

I was surprised that the Spanish left this site intact while they destroyed most of other Incan/Pagan temples. Infact, there is a large colonial church right next to this temple! The other thing I observed (and is quite obvious) was that the penises were circumcised… something that the Incas did not do. Some articles question the authenticity of the temple in its current form, although the authenticity of the stones itself is not questioned. Someone might just have rearranged and touristified what was otherwise a broken temple.

I purchased some phallic souvenirs and came back to Puno.

Look! A foreigner
img_3791rbms.jpg
Me and a school boy in a Combi

Traveling with local people in the crowded Combi was the best part of this journey. They were all staring at me, watching my every action, and even laughing at my broken Spanish. :) Earlier that day, a roadside banana seller told me in Spanish how to go to Chucoito (I was nodding as if I understood everything). From the local Collectivo stop in Puno, a ride to Chucuito costs only Uno (one) sol. The lady money collector however was teasing me and asking for “Uno Americano Dólar, Señor” (अुनो अामेरीकान्यो दोलर, सेन्योर) while I went “Si” (सी=yes) and joined the laughter.

A Collectivo could be any vehicle such as a bus, mini van or a car that is used for public transport. Specifically, a Combi is a shared taxi. The driver will wait until the vehicle is full and then leave. Often he will stuff more people in. Combi’s in Peru are the same as ‘Tuk-Tuk’ or ‘Phat-Phat’ (or any other names I dont know) in India or ‘Sherut’ in Israel or ‘Marshrutka’ in Russia or ‘Jitney’ in US/Canada.

img_3793rbms.jpg
Inside a Combi just before it got too crowded. Women are usually seen wearing round hats.

The rest of the town is pretty much typical – A Plaza de Armas, Churches, few shops around and houses and fields.
img_3804rbms.jpg
Colonial Church at the Plaza de Armas, Chucuito

PicturesFor the complete photo set, slideshow and comments, please see my Puno Photo Gallery

This blog post is part of my Peru travelog series. Click here for Index page
Previous post: Puno | Next post: Food

Related posts

  • Andean Explorations – 21: Machu Picchu (30)
  • Andean Explorations – 19: Moray and Salinas (28)
  • Andean Explorations 14 – Amantani island (13)
  • Andean Explorations – 20: The road to Machu Picchu (28)
  • Andean Explorations – 18: Sacred Valley (16)

¶ Blogged by Priyank Thatte | Tags: Historical, Inca, Peru, Rituals

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Reader's Comments

  1. meghnak on July 21st, 2008 said:

    Lovely pics….nice writing :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  2. Celine on July 21st, 2008 said:

    Uyo, I mean, Ayyo..What a farm!!
    Are the phallic souvenirs on display now that you are back in Toronto? That’s a nice shot inside the Combi.:)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  3. Cuckoo on July 21st, 2008 said:

    Hee Heee…..
    Worshiping of penis is something like worshiping shivalingam in some areas of India and the purpose is same.

    I wonder how much more traffic you’ll get now. ;)
    Ha Ha Ha…..

    Reply to this comment ↵
  4. Shantanu on July 21st, 2008 said:

    Well, well! What d’ya know? I thought we had the monopoly on phallic symbolism.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  5. lakshmi on July 22nd, 2008 said:

    all civilisations are obsessed with fertility rites…

    Reply to this comment ↵
  6. Annie on July 23rd, 2008 said:

    Looks like you are avid traveler. I liked this full series…..nice & enjoyable! Peru looks to be must to visit. Adding it to my list :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  7. Bob on July 23rd, 2008 said:

    Learn something new and interesting every single time I come here, Penis Temple, who knew,lol.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  8. Sudipta Chatterjee on July 24th, 2008 said:

    Cool! Maybe they collaborated with the people who built the Konark Temple :P

    Reply to this comment ↵
  9. Shantanu on July 27th, 2008 said:

    Also, you don’t talk too much about food. What kinda stuff did you eat in all these places? How’s the street food?

    Reply to this comment ↵
  10. Nomadic Matt on July 28th, 2008 said:

    that is a lot of peni (is that plural lol) I don’t even wan to know what that white stain is.

    Interesting site….i saw a few fertility places in Asia..they’re all very symbolic huh

    Reply to this comment ↵
  11. Anna on July 29th, 2008 said:

    …and I thought they were mushrooms, lol. Thanks for sharing, great photography and story…Anna :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  12. Maverick on July 30th, 2008 said:

    Such temples exist in India though, although they dont carry phallic symbols , people believe that visiting some temples will make them fertile.

    Interesting story btw lol…. u bought phallic souveneirs, who r u giving them to :) ? and no offense…but didnt u get turned on :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  13. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Meghna:
    Thanks dear!

    Reply to this comment ↵
  14. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Cellu:
    Yes, as a matter of fact I have a stone penis souvenir in my living room! It’s a topic of discussion usually.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  15. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Cuckoo
    Yes, that was the whole point of this post. Even when I was visiting this place, I was thinking… hmm this would make a nice blog entry. hhehehe :)

    Shivlinga is one of the dearest symbols of Hinduism. There are many more :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  16. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Shantanu
    I will write a post dedicated to food. I am not a big foodie liek you, plus being overly vegetarian restricts my diet in foreign countries.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  17. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Lakshmi
    You couldn’t be right. Even in Tibet, I hear there is a (maybe there isn’t any after the Chinese destruction) a large temple dedicated to fertility.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  18. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Bob
    Glad to hear that. You should visit India sometime :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  19. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Sudipta
    Konark? But thats a Sun temple. Did you mean Khajuraho?

    Reply to this comment ↵
  20. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Matt
    LOL @ the white stain! Being the most basic human tendencies, its not surprising that most cultures love the reproductive organs ;)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  21. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Anna
    Yeah, I have posted a picture of a penis on the sidewalk of the city square in this village. It does look like a mushroom, an innocent mind would be fooled :) Peru, rather the entire south amerika, is worth visiting. Thanks for writing!

    Reply to this comment ↵
  22. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Maverick
    Turned on? LOL by stone icons? hehehe, no that happens only with the real stuff ;-) I gave some as gifts to friends but the largest sculpture is sitting in my living room.

    Reply to this comment ↵
  23. Priyank on August 12th, 2008 said:

    Annie
    Yes do visit Peru, and the entire south america for that matter :)

    Reply to this comment ↵
  24. The Divine Madman » Final Transit : Travel Blog on March 21st, 2009 said:

    [...] Do read about my post on Incan Temple of Fertility in [...]

    Reply to this comment ↵
  25. Andean Explorations - 10: Puno » Final Transit : Travel Blog on May 18th, 2009 said:

    [...] Me ← Andean Explorations – 9: Arequipa to Puno : Older post Newer post : Andean Explorations – 11: Temple of Fertility [...]

    Reply to this comment ↵

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