Andean Explorations – 4: Miraflores – the uptown district of Lima
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It’s my first morning in Lima today. I am so excited to wakeup to the fresh salty smells of Lima air. I got up pretty early although I slept late last night. Peru is only an hour ahead of Toronto, so there was no jet lag at all. It’s a nice feeling – strange but not unfamiliar. Get up early out of regular habit, realize that you own your day, go back to sleep, wake up late etc. Then have breakfast, linger around in pajamas etc. No deadlines, nobody to report to; “I like!” as Borat would have said.
Breakfast, with my darling (laptop)
A Bolivian girl, who had large almond eyes and wore eyeliner that looked like a kajal, told me how to go to Pachacamac, the old ruins. However, another American tourist who went there the same day advised me not to go there and waste a day, instead she told me to go to the beach front, and to a site called Huaca Pucllana (वाका पुक्लाना ). Since I was unsure if I’d be in Lima for over a day, I decided not to go too far and see local sights instead.
Police car, Miraflores
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Chaos on street
Later this morning, I walked around the posh Miraflores district to reach Huaca Pucllana. I was greeted by a gigantic pyramidal structure. For an entrance fees of S/. 7, an English language tour guide comes free. I had to wait for barely 5 minutes and soon a group of English-wanting tourists arrived.
Huaca Pucllana pyramid
These Pyramids were built by the Lima tribe, who were surrounded by the Waris (वारी) in north and Nascas (नास्का) to the south. They had a unique construction style. After every 15 years, they closed the existing chambers of the pyramid and built a new structure on the top of that. 3 rituals were required before the chambers were closed – a human sacrifice, a pottery offering and finally, some food. In honor of the Sea God, a young woman, age 12-25, slim, short and beautiful, was sacrificed. These girls were picked from their childhood, or as they grew up, they offered themselves to the Gods. The Lima society was matricidal, i.e. it was led by women. The style of construction is called ‘book case’ style, because it resembles the manner in which books are arranged in a shelf. This construction stood firm while the whole Lima city was destroyed by earthquakes. Wonderful!
Govinda restaurant
It was close to noon and I was now getting hungry. I looked up my guidebook and found a hotel that served vegetarian food, called ‘Govinda’. Surprised? Even I was surprised when I heard that the Hare Krishna (ISKON) movement had a bunch of followers in Peru, and South America in general. This place I went had statues and pictures of Lord Krishna, bhajans playing softly and even a modest temple on the upper floor. I was very intrigued. The caretaker told me that there was a small gathering that night and I should come. All I could talk to him was “Soy de India” (I am from India) and he started talking in Spanish for next 2 minutes with an obvious delight!
Downtown Miraflores
After I was full, I started walking westward towards the sea front. I walked on the promenade that runs along the cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It was a nice view of the largest Ocean. I have so far seen Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, Mediterranean Sea and now the Pacific Ocean (haha!). I wanted to linger around to watch sunset in the Pacific but I decided against it because: there was nothing to do in that area, and the air was very polluted and foggy (as you can see in the pictures).
Beach front
Promenade along the Pacific ocean
I shopped for some supplies for the night, walked till my legs broke off and then returned to my hostel some time back. I want to have a nice cold shower now and think about what to do later tonight. I think the best place to think stink-free is while standing under the shower faucet while cold water pours all over you 
For the complete photo set, slideshow and comments, please see my Lima Photo Gallery
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Human sacrifice..argh!
To think that the practice existed in all cultures and most religions is disgusting. Who decides what the Sea God wants? Couldn’t he be appeased with many more pots instead of an innocent human life? Sorry I digress but had to vent out.
Huaca Pucllana, Govinda, think with a wink while showering..all interesting.:)
Btw, why did you say the kajal-wearing almond-eyed girl was Bolivian when you were in Peru? Did you ask for her nationality?
↵Great description and pictures! Not too surprised by the story on human sacrifices, thanks to Mel GIbson’s dramatization of some of what went on in this region of the world.
Govinda restaurant! That’s cool. As is the sculpture on the promenade.
↵The ratio of photos and description has changed from your last outing
Both are delightful as always!
↵Hey Celine,
That a civilization which builds marvelous structures, knows advanced math and medicine can have this dark side is really hard to comprehend. But then, the religious zeal to offer yourself to God is prevailant even today in some religions, isn’t it?
The girl herself told me that she was Bolivian; she worked in Lima.
↵Shantanu: Apocalypto was fantastic movie man
You are a foodie, right! I will post more about Peruvian delicacies soon.
↵hahaha, Gauri, you are funny, but the ratio will keep changing
↵Hmmm…. Now what do I write when I agree with all the 3 commenters above ?
All the pictures tell their own stories and on top of that.. your description ? Icing on the cake.
BTW, your pictures are so wonderfully different, why don’t you chip in here if you have some to match with the topic ?
Cuckoo
↵Huh ??? My comment is awaiting moderation ? :O
↵Hi Cuckoo,
I’m happy to know that you considering them worthwhile.
I am sure I will find some pictures to contribute
Moderation, well, by default, wordpress blocks messages that have two or more links in them.
↵looks like a nice get-away destination….. and you did the right thing, I think, by roaming around the city… thats the best way to get a feel of the place.
↵Thanks for stopping by my site. I like it over here too. I am going to add you to my links page.
Great story too! I look forward to more.
↵Oemar: Peru is really great, and I love walking. Its indeed the best place to discover a city.
↵Matt: Welcome to my website and thanks for the comments. I have already blogrolled you
↵“I like”,lol, excellent pics and very interesting, love coming here, great job!! going to add to my links.
↵I wish I could have come with you
↵Keep posting!!
Bob, I like to see your comment here. I blogrolled you few weeks back
Thanks for reciprocating.
↵Debu: We’ll go somewhere when I visit India.
↵Human sacrifices seem to be in all cultures..wonder why this practise came up..its sad that its still In india..pics are awesome..Ive read almost all your Peru posts now
↵quite pleased with my speed
Lakshmi
Lakshmi: Human sacrifices are still practised in India? Where? How? I didn’t know that!
↵Very nice.. I like
↵nice introduction to the general environment and pace of the place. Mast hai.
Vaarun: cheers man, I miss it
↵[...] (Bus Terminal) is about 10 minutes away from City center. By road, the city is well connected to Lima, Arequipa, etc but all routes pass thru Puno / Juliaca (which is where I came from!). The airport [...]
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